Day 2: Calf Mountain Shelter to Some Realizations

Well, from the title you can probably guess that things did not go as planned today. This is a very difficult post to write, but I intend this blog to be fully transparent. I will tell it like it is. First I will describe the day’s events. Second I will discuss what the implications are and how I will move foreward.
Last night at the shelter was great. I already mentioned that I had dinner with three other hikers. For those who dont’ know, hikers usually go by “trail names” which is just a fancy way of describing a nick name. First I met “Turtle” who began his hike in Janurary. I guess that’s how he got his name, since most thru hikers would have started in March. Next up was a guy from Maine who was thru hiking. He started March 11. Because I didn’t learn his trail name, I call him “Maine.” Finally there was “Trail Lite” who is a 2004 thru hiker and is presently on a two month section hike. He started 2 weeks ago.
After posting my entry last night, I inflated my sleeping pad, got in, and fell fast asleep. I must have been seriously tired, because even the various rustlings of leaves and possibly creatures did not phase me. The only thing that woke me up was my body’s occasional need to rotate on its side.
So 5:50am arose and I awoke to several factors. Dawn, activity in the shelter (Turtle was up and getting ready to head out) and finally, my bladder. I quickly got clothed and headed to take care of business.

Afterwards, I returned to my tent, pictured above since I forgot to photograph it last night before bed, to retrieve my cook stove so I could make  coffee! I headed to the shelter (pictured below) where “Turtle” was completing his packing for the day’s hike.

He knew of my difficulty on Day 1, and asked how I was feeling. I told him that I felt fine as was going to press on. He was encouraging me with the “hike your own hike” philosophy – a mind set shared among most hikers that means exactly what it says; dont hike to anyone else’s goals or milestones. While we were talking, “Maine” got out of his tent and packed in record time. I don’t know if he ate breakfast or not. If he did, it wasn’t at the shelter. He was up, packed and out in a flash. Shortly after, “Turtle” and I wished each other luck, and he was off.

“Trail Lite” was still in his tent at this point, so I was enjoying my coffee, eating breakfast and intermitantly packing my gear getting ready for the day’s hike. He exited his tent at about 8:30am and packed his gear. He came in the shelter to eat just as I was heading to pack my last item; my tent. I brought it over to the shelter where I was staging my items for the “pack stuff maneuver” – an act that involves stuffing all of one’s gear into half the total volume usually required. I was nearly done, at 9:30am, and “Trail Lite” was heading out. He was also headed to Blackrock Hut where we hoped to meet back up. We wished each other well and he told me to not give up. At 9:45am I was finally fully packed and loaded up, so I headed out.
Side trail pic

Looking back at the shelter side trail

The trail ahead

The first mile was a rapid descent of 1000 feet. Along that descent was a beautiful view into the valley along a clearing for some massive powerlines.

At the bottom of the descent began a “steep” ascent of 500 feet over about 1 mile. You would think that after yesterday’s ascent of 1000 feet total, that a scant 500 feet would be no problem. But in truth, it was very difficult. It seemed every thirty paces or so, I was pausing to catch my breath or wait for the thigh burning to cease. Not helping matters was a hot day with several rocky sections that had no shade.
After the top, the trail dropped that 500 feet again, and then added 200 feet landing me at Sawmill Run Overlook on the Skyline Drive. Across the road, I was surprised to find “Trail Lite” sitting under a tree taking a break. I totally had not expected to see any of the guys that were at Calf Mountain last night. They were all trail hardened and since they left before I did, there was no way I would catch them.

Sawmill Run Overlook

I sat down under the same tree to take a much needed break and plus up on some Gatorade and Water. I asked “Trail Lite” if he had checked the guide yet. He answered afirmative, so I asked how far we had come. “3.1 miles,” was the response. I checked my phone for the time. “12:00 noon,” was the response.
What??? I’ve been hiking for 2.25 hours and have only covered 3.1 miles? That’s barely better than 1mph. Still having 10 miles to my destination, Black Rock Hut, I did a little mental calculation. Even if I could maintain the same pace to this point, that would put me to the shelter at about 7:30pm. Already feeling worn down, I reckoned my chances of maintaining that pace almost nil. Certainly it would be slower. That left me with two choices. Press on to the shelter come hell or high water and be faces with 1. Not arriving until after dark, or 2. Not making it to the shelter and having to find a suitable stealth site. Being the new kid on the block, neither of those options was optimal. I checked the trail guide to see what the terrain ahead was like. Perhaps my spirits would be lifted by a gentle climb, a series of downhills, a stretch of flat. The guide indicated that none of those was the case. No, leaving this area would result in an immediate 1200 foot climb over 3 miles – which was very demoralizing. A third option arose just as I noted those trail conditions.
“Trail Lite” said he was considering skipping ahead some so he could get further north on his 2 month section hike. I sat with him and chatted for a while and finally made the sad realization that my trip, as planned, was over.
I would hitch a ride north with “Trail Lite,” return to my car and head back to Shairer Trail Center where I had stayed Sunday nite with Jim and Danny. From there I would regroup and figure out how to move forward.
Since I’d never hitchhiked before, “Trail Lite” would be my teacher. I asked, “So, you just stick out your thumb like this?” He said, “Yeah. What, you’ve never done this before?” I said, “Nope, and I need to learn as many skills on this trip as possile.” (Already, “Maine” had to teach me the proper method of hanging a food bag on a bear pole.)
So, with thumbs outwardly stretched at the first sign of a northbound vehicle, said vehicle pulls into the parking area. Being a large pickup truck, it was extra inviting. Even more inviting was the driver’s query, “Are you fellas headed further up on THIS road? If so, hop on in the back and knock on the window when you want out.” Must have been beginner luck – first hitchhike, first car – score.
From where we were it was about an hour’s drive to Bearfence Parking area where my car was. “Trail Lite’s” original plan was to get out at Lewis Mountain – and re-start his section hike there.
On the drive, he told me about his 2004 thru hike and the amazing experience it was. We talked about my “current situation” and he encouraged me to not beat myself up over it. Keep trying, get more fit, set more attainable goals were his advice. During the drive, I managed to capture these photos from the Skyline Drive.

We were enjoying each other’s company, so we decided he would come all the way to my car where I would then drive him back to Lewis Mountain. Then “Trail Lite” started talking cheeseburgers. Oh boy. We knew that Big Meadows Wayside was only a few miles past my car. The thought of a burger and cold soda were too great to ignore.
We spied my car and tapped the truck’s rear window and the driver let us out. We retrieved our packs and poles and went to express our gratitude to the driver. “Trail Lite,” being from Georgia, noted that the truck had Georgia license plates. Asking the driver where he was from, we found out their two respective hometowns were a mere twenty miles apart. What a coincidence! It turns out the driver and his wife were on their way to Baltimore to catch a plane to Germany. These folks just happened to be taking a scenic drive en route to a plane and gave two hikers a lift as part of their journey. Pretty cool.
Into my car, and north to Big Meadow Wayside, we drove. Pulling into the parking lot, we made an expedious exit and headed to the resturaunt entrance. Seating ourselves and ordering a Pepsi, the waitress brought them quickly. I have never tasted a better Pepsi in my life. Even after only a day and a half on trail, this drink tasted like necter of the gods. One reason for my thru hike is a re-appreciation of thngs taken for granted. If only 1.5 days invokes such a reaction, I can only imagine the reaction after a week.
We ordered lunch; a cheeseburger and fries for both. While waiting, we noticed several thru hikers outside suiting up to continue their hike. One was still inside, whom we chatted with for a few minutes. He noticed the group outside preparing to leave, and made a quick exit to join them. He wasn’t with the group, but it sure looked like he was trying to catch up with them! (I leave the details to the reader’s imagination)
“Trail Lite” and I enjoyed our meals and drank a total of 3 Pepsi’s each – during which time “Trail Lite” studied his trail guide. From our location, it was only 5 miles to Rock Springs Hut – the next shelter on the A.T. He decided to start from here – rather than have me drive him back to Lewis Mountain.
We paid for our meals, browsed around the camp store just to see their offerings. We were both appalled! This store obviously did not cater to the lightweight needs of thru hikers. We’re talking 6 pound sleeping bags, 6 pound tents, etc. If you needed it, they had it – but it was heavy and WAAAAY pricey.
We left the store, returned to the car and prepared to part ways. I asked if he would like to share contact information so we could keep in touch. He replied with, “Let’s do it.” We wished each other luck, and just like that – he was gone.
I got in my car and drove back to Eaton Hollow Overlook – the parking area for Schairer Trail Center where Jim and Danny were staying. Arriving, I unloaded my pack, loaded my back and hiked on to the cabin.

Me ready to hike to cabin

The trail to the cabin

I arrived at the cabin to find Jim laying on the front porch enjoying the somewhat cool breeze and reading a book. He initially thought I was Danny, who had gone on a day hike. He was surprised to hear it was me – understandably so! I shared my story with him and begin writing this post that you are now (hopefully, still) reading.
After Danny returned from his outing, we all had dinner and I continued to write… until I could write no further. I was physically, mentally and emotionally exhausted and simply could not collect my thoughts coherently. It was time to sleep.

So what does all of this mean? It means a lot of things that can be summarized in two statements: 1. I have over-estimated my present level of fitness, and 2. I have under-estimated the difficulty of the trail. Basically my reach has exceeded my grasp. (For fans of the film, Top Gun: “Son, your ego is writing checks your body can’t cash.”)
I think I have planned an itenerary that is just a little out of reach at this point. 12 and 13 mile days are clearly out of the question right now. What I need is a series of 7 to 8 mile days and then slowly ramp it up from there. Perhaps even a whole weeklong plan was biting off too much to chew. A series of weekend trips of the out-and-back variety might be more appropriate at this early stage.
Also, at the suggestion of “Trail Lite,” a plan for general fitness is probably a good idea – specifically to build some better cardiovascular endurance.
On a positive note – and trust me I need as many positives from this as possible – I do have to say that, with the primary purpose of this trip being gear familiarity and building camping mojo, I am extremely happy with my gear choices. My cook set works wonderfully, my tent is easy to put up and take down, sleeping bag and pad are easy to roll and my backpack is extremely comfortable. Also, the routine of camping easily came back to me. I guess old habits die hard in that regard.

I suppose one could be simplistic and say that I quit or gave up and just leave it at that. Maybe there’s even a little truth in that. Still it is far too much of a summarization to say that. I am choosing to take a positive learning experience from this so that things don’t go south next time. As mentioned above – shorter trips, less ambitious miles – being more realistic about my present abilities.
Because there WILL BE a next time. My endeavor to thru hike next year is not over. Not by a long shot.